Home at Last!

Martin came home a day earlier than planned.  So glad he is home!

Headed for Home... Sort of.

Coming down from Base Camp

Martin (second on the left) and a few members from the Everest

and Lhotse team coming down from Base Camp.

Martin hiked down to Kathmandu from Base Camp in just two days on Tuesday.  He walked through the night instead of stopping in Namche Bazaar for the night's rest.  He and a teammate, Matt, decided to continue hiking down the rest of the 9-hour climb after having hiked the whole day and "just get down."  The ironic thing is that Martin's headlamp died an hour after the sun set and Matt had packed his headlamp in his baggage that had gone on ahead of them.  So they hiked in the dark all night. Pretty funny for two experienced mountaineers.

Here's the good part. Instead of Martin going back to the Hyatt to rest and shower in Kathmandu for a day—when he arrived at the Kathmandu airport from Lukla, he just got on the first plane to Bangkok that same day. His flight from Bangkok to Salt Lake City wasn't booked until this Saturday to come home, so he did what anybody would do that just climbed the tallest mountain in the world. He went scuba diving in southern Thailand.  Now he can say he climbed the highest peak and scuba dived in the same week. (And don't worry, he begged me to come meet him in Thailand again with Lily, but after having just done that 17-hour flight 3 weeks ago, I regretfully declined.)

I am sure he'll have lots of photos to post upon his return. Until then, he can be found somewhere in the Gulf of Thailand around Jansom Bay.

—Kym

PS. While talking with Martin today, he mentioned that our next adventure will either be biking across America or sailing around the Granadine islands.  And yes, I knew what I was getting myself into before I married him. :)

A View from the Top

"God used beautiful mathematics in creating the world." —Paul Dirac

Summit Day

Tashi Chhiring, Martin Frey and Jim Holliday

At the Top of the World!

On the evening of May 19, we woke up at 10:30pm to get ready for our summit departure at 12:15am. It is amazing at 26,000 feet how long the simplest of tasks takes you to perform. My anxiety was enhanced by the cold. All the preparation and everything that we worked for over the last 2 months came down to how I performed once I stepped foot out of the tent.

As we left the South Col, I led our second group up to the steep climb to the Balcony. I was unsure why the Sherpa had me lead, and I was very uncertain if my pace was going to be good enough. We had a 4-hour cutoff to get to the Balcony. As we climbed, I felt my breathing get more and more constricted and I soon realized that my regulator input and exhaust had frozen closed. Fortunately, Tashi (my Sherpa) had a knife to clear a passageway and I was breathing great again. Close to the Balcony, I started passing slower climbers and that really motivated me. At the Balcony we had our first pit stop and also changed out our oxygen bottles. I had a Hammer Gel and a gulp of water while the Sherpas swapped out my O2 bottle. Within 5 minutes we were on the move again enabling me to pass even more climbers. Adrian, our guide, called me on the radio and said, "Congratulations! You made it to the Balcony in 3 hours!" I felt so relieved and energized. My summit chances had just improved dramatically!

Our next objective was the South Summit which is towards the top of Everest. It is what you see when looking up from the South Col. If I thought the climb to the Balcony was steep, sections going up to the South Summit were even steeper. Worse, we were hauling up the ropes and scraping our crampons on the rock trying to get a toehold. In other sections we struggled to get a foothold in the soft powder. We continued to pass a few more climbers, mostly because our oxygen flow rate was higher than average. This became a huge advantage later as we were able to avoid the traffic jams on the Hillary Step. My left toes went numb in spite of having my boot heaters on full blast. Fortunately the wind chill was minimal. Dawn came early at 28,000 feet, and the view looking down on the other mountains poking through the clouds was spectacular. Once the sun rose and I could see more clearly, I soon realized just how exposed we were on the ridges. I could look down on either side of me and see for miles down over each edge. After what seemed like forever, we reached the South Summit and I was feeling worn out. Just over the summit we had our second pit stop and I had a second gel and some water while the Sherpa's changed out my O2 bottle again.

As we headed along the ridge line toward the Hillary Step, my goggles froze to the point of where I couldn't see at all. We literally had to scrape the ice off of the inside surface of my goggles as well as the outside of them.

Just to give you an idea of how cold it was up there. This
is my guide, Shinji's camera. Turned popsicle.

We reached the Hillary Step sooner than I expected, and although it was the hardest technical section on the mountain, it seemed like three moves and I was above it. I have a deep respect for Edmond Hillary's ability to get up and over the ledge without fixed lines and haul himself forward to the Summit of Everest.

Approaching the Hillary Step.

Ascending the Hillary Step

As I approached the Summit, our first group of Himex climbers passed me coming down from the top. They were full of encouragement and said it was a smooth approach from there to the top. Digging deep within myself, I mentally knew I could get there, but my energy reserves were definitely low—making each step a challenge. Slowly I came up the last slope and saw the prayer flags. In just a few more minutes after that, I was on the Summit of Everest, at 29,035 feet! Unbelievable! After catching my breath, I soon began enjoying the congratulatory hugs and photo opportunities.

Approaching the Summit.

On the Summit of Mt. Everest!

While at the Summit, I planted the Utah Valley University flag (where I am on the Woodbury School of Business Advisory Board) to show students that their UVU education can take them anywhere they want to go.

Planting the Utah Valley University flag
at the Summit of Mt. Everest!

Utah Valley University Flag meets the
Summit of Mt. Everest.  

I also took a photo of a picture that I carry on all my climbs. It is of one of my dearest friends and climbing buddies, Steve Gasser. Steve died suddenly in October last year while cycling in a century race in St. George, UT. He and I had set the goal while climbing Denali together in 2009 that we would climb the Seven Summits. We planned to climb Everest together. And we did.

Remembering a dear friend and fellow climber.

Steve Gasser on top of Denali '09

...And it goes without saying. To the three girls I love the most.

Always reminding you that I love you.

After taking in the moment, all too soon it was time to descend. Most of the accidents on Everest happen on the descent and that thought crossed my mind as I started down. "Stay safe. Stay alert."

As I descended the Hillary Step (and to add a little drama to the moment) my foot slipped off the rock and for a few seconds I hung by the ropes with just my hands. Fortunately, I recovered quickly with the help of Tashi (who was below me), by him placing my boot on a crack where I could gain a purchase. Once down the Hillary Step, across the ridge line, and at the South Summit, we ran into the 50 plus climbers we had passed on the way up earlier that morning. I was very grateful to not have had their experience. Later I heard that some had to wait in line going nowhere for over two hours.

From the South Summit it is all downhill, and I was in constant amazement at just how far we had climbed up to the Summit. Most of the climb down is arm rappelling, which is tightening the rope around your arm to control your descent speed. It is a lot faster than true rappelling. But coming down a few of those steep sections made my heart race. By now, about 8:00am, I was getting really hot and fighting dehydration. I had drank less than half a liter of water. My neck began to really hurt from looking down as I sidestepped down from the Balcony back to the South Col. Finally, about 9:30am, we arrived back in camp and I sat down in my tent and realized just how exhausted I was. I started a coughing fit that lasted 30 minutes, while trying to hydrate and also take in some O2. Soon I was asleep, but within the hour we got the message that we were to break camp by 11:30am and head down another 5,000 feet to Camp 2 before the weather turned on us.

I was the last climber from our team to leave the South Col (where Camp 4 is located) and was able to see how quickly the Sherpas packed things up in our camp to head to Base Camp. In addition to the tents, they carried 88, nine pound oxygen cylinders down the mountain after having just summited.

The climb down in the early afternoon was a test in my tolerance to heat exhaustion, but I was glad to be going down instead of up. Passing the Geneva Spur and the Yellow Band left an emotional impression on me. For so long I had looked up at them as the highest objects I could see from Camp 2. Now they were fading from my sight.

We picked up some gear and trash at Camp 3 and continued down the Lhotse Face in partial whiteout conditions as the snow and fog had set in on the mountain. I could barely see the climber in front or behind me and the isolation left me feeling confident in my recent accomplishment.

I was the third climber to Camp 2 and felt, surprisingly, in fairly good shape. Assessing the damage, all I had was a double blister on my left big toe, my left toes were tingling and my neck pain was excruciating. But I was functioning well given what I had just put my body through earlier in the day. Several of the other climbers were completely exhausted once they reached the camp. After a big dinner I was off to bed.

The next morning, we had a 5:00am breakfast before heading down to Base Camp. Going through the Icefall for the sixth time gave me the opportunity to finally take a few pictures without worrying about keeping up with the group. The rest of today was spent swapping photos, blogging and having a party to thank the Sherpas and celebrate our success. We learned that our group had summited very fast in comparison to the average time amongst the other expeditions. Our team's first ascent to the top was at 6:30am, where other teams first ascents were at 9:15am. I averaged a 6.5 hour climb from Camp 4 to the Summit, and 3 hours back down to Camp 4. Making it a round trip of 9.5 hours. It was an impressive time and I am quite pleased. All climbers from our remaining 8 in the group were able to summit. It was a wonderful moment.

Today the expedition doctor, Monica, said that my tingling toes should be back to normal in a month or so. :) A friendly reminder from Mt. Everest letting me know who's boss.

I have more pictures to show you, but right now I am up on the only mountain near Base Camp that gets a bit of reception. It's 11:00 at night and VERY, VERY cold. So, I'll sign off for now with more to come later.

Thank you all for your kind comments. It is so wonderful to know that I have so many following this amazing adventure with me.

–Martin

Martin Summits Everest! (29,035 ft)

Lily, Meredith and I are celebrating in Utah!

After 51 long days, Martin made it to the Summit of Mt. Everest! 

The climb for the Summit took him just 6.5 hours after leaving Camp 4 to make it to the Top of the World! Martin lingered at the Summit long enough to take a few photos, bask in some magnificent scenery, give his teammates some hugs, and relish in what he had personally accomplished.

Once Martin had his time at the Summit, he and his team headed back down to Camp 4. They rested there for a few hours, and then went right down to Camp 2 to spend the night. I am sure I will get more details when he gets back down to Base Camp tomorrow but this was GREAT NEWS to have finally received after hours of waiting. Martin sounded well and was just elated to have been able to touch the Summit!

In order to not spare another moment, I am going to just cut and paste the dispatch that was released early this morning:

"I just got off the phone with an elated Adrian from Camp 4 at the South Col. He and all of those remaining on the Himex team have just summited Mount Everest! After high winds turned many teams around from summit bids yesterday, today was lining up to be quite busy. With Phurba Tashi and Adrian breaking trail and a very strong Himex team behind them, the Sherpas were able to short rope the members, passing the lineup on the fixed ropes, and enabling the Himex team to enjoy the summit without the crowd. They are all safely down at Camp 4 to rest a bit and plan to continue on to Camp 2, where they will spend a night. Congrats to all!"

Pretty cool about Adrian and Phurba breaking a new trail and then short-roping the team to bypass the que of climbers waiting to summit, huh? I love that they had the Summit to themselves–if just for a little while.

I need to have someone pick me up off the floor now after all this anticipation. I'll be back with details once I get a chance to talk with him some more.

XOXO Kym


P.S. Please leave a comment for Martin. He'll love hearing from everyone who has followed this adventure with him!

They're Off!

12:25am, Friday, May 20 (in Nepal)
I’m sure there is some excitement, mixed in with some anticipation and nerves right about now from Martin and his team of explorers.  The Himex team has started on their final bid for the Summit of  Mount Everest (29,035 ft) after reaching Camp 4 earlier in the day. The weather was reported as still being favorable when they departed Camp 4 at midnight (their time), although the weather report reads that the wind is “between hard and calm.”  Let’s go for calm.  It is reported now that a number of teams will be summiting at around the same time.  I hope this doesn’t clog up the lines and block their efforts to attack the Summit. 

The general plan going forward is to start the slow ascent from Camp 4 on the South Col towards “The Balcony” at 27,500 ft. From this small platform, Martin and his team will face a series of rock steps at about 28,700 ft before climbing the badly exposed knife-edge southeast ridge along what is known as the “Cornice Traverse”.  At the end of this traverse is the 40ft rock wall known as the “Hilary Step” at 28,750 ft. After this, it is the home stretch and is a comparatively easy climb to the Summit at 29,035 ft on angled snow slopes.  

Back by popular demand. :) My maps for your reference. 

Now all I can do is wait.  I'll post if I hear anything.

Camp 4—Ready and Waiting for a Summit Bid

The Himex Team at Camp 4.  Not sure if Martin is
the one in the back in the red coat.  I think he had a red coat... hmmm.

10:35am (Utah time)—May 19 
Great news!  Finally, I found a dispatch saying that the team has arrived safely to Camp 4 today. Adrian reported on the radio that, "there is a light wind and it is very beautiful."  The team left Camp 3 at 6am going through the South Col via the Yellow Band. (A layer of sandstone, shale and limestone that has a light yellow tone which at one time was the ocean floor.) It required a bit of climbing over rock and ice to get through to arrive at Camp 4.  The team was also on supplementary oxygen throughout last nights climb and will be for the rest of the climb.  Adrian reported via the teams dispatch that, "Everyone is feeling good and we are all psyched to go to the top tomorrow morning."

Martin and his team will continue to rest at Camp 4 for the remainder of the day, boil their water, eat a little and breathe supplementary oxygen as they prepare to summit early Friday morning (May 20).  The plan is to leave at midnight (their time) which is exactly 1.5 hours from now, Utah time.  Did anyone's palms just get sweaty?

The dispatch reported that the weather forecast is, "looking promising and the Himex team will be one of a few teams heading for the top of the world tomorrow morning."

Please say a little prayer in behalf of the Himex team today... and an extra one for Martin.

We're getting close.

–Kym

The Ramblings of a Loving AND Nervous Spouse

At the 30^th anniversary of Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay’s triumphant Summit, the town of Khumjung held a festival in their honor. The school (that Hillary built) performed a play where the children prepared a lesson on, "Mountains and how they should be climbed."

The lesson taught:

1. A helping hand is always appreciated.
2. Pace yourself. The steeper the slope the more rest you need.
3. Try not to trip on the tangled rope. The fall may be farther than you think.
4. When altitude sickness strikes, a whiff of oxygen can work wonders.
5. When lost, look for the summit. That’s where you’re going.
6. And in the final assault, on the last gale swift ridge, don’t lose heart.

Simple advice from wise children.

I sit here. At home. I am safely harbored, or rather, “holed up” away from the cold and wet outside my window waiting on word of the climb 10,000 miles away. I’m a bit immobilized because my thoughts are turned toward Martin. Is he safe? Is he cold? What thoughts carry him up the mountain? Lily (our 2-year old daughter) has no clue where her father is and doesn't sense my nervousness. So she keeps me entertained with her laughter and need for constant interaction. But still, even her distraction doesn’t seem to turn my mind away from thinking that Martin is on the mountain, of ALL mountains, having an amazing human experience.

Fear is my biggest fault. I worry too much about the unknown. This is one of the reasons I decided to accompany Martin to Everest Base Camp. It wasn’t because it would be the adventure of my life. It was merely to “check the place out.” Get a visual. So, when I left Martin at Base Camp, I’d know what he was talking about more as a veteran, and less as a visitor. I’d understand that when he talks about the cold, I'd know how bone-numbing it is. I’d understand that at high altitude, a walk to your tent can feel equivalent to being hit in the stomach with a bowling ball. I’d know how the food tastes, the smell of the burning juniper being offered to the gods and who his mates were on the mountain. I’d know the guides: Russ, Adrian, Woody, Shinji and Phurba. I'd know the team doctor, Monica.  And I'd know the cooks, Lacchu and his nephew, Tashi. Tashi accompanied me back down to Lukla and stayed by my side when I lost it a little (okay, a lot) after leaving Martin. And, of course, I’d have a chance to meet those young, strong Sherpas. I would be there with him… even if I wasn’t.

Only after my arrival to Base Camp, did I realize that it had been the adventure of a lifetime. My fear dissipated, a bit. But enough so that I could shed the fears and the danger of it all and just be excited for Martin. It’s quite intimidating to look at those huge mountains in person. Quiet sentinals reminding you that there is a greater plan. That there is a God. Of course, I knew that already, but it’s always good to be reminded in such a grand manner.

We are often attracted by who we want to be in others. I feel that with Martin. He is my polar opposite when it comes to fear. Now, he’s not stupid enough to go jump off a cliff (unless he’s packed his own parachute), but just stupid enough to try climbing the highest peak in the world–even after knowing it’s less than stellar statistics. He loves to get lost in the adventure and explore new paths, trails, roads and waters. And if you’re standing close enough, you get to experience the adventure with him. I’ll admit, the fear I have now waffles between sheer terror and pure elation. But just being with him inches me closer to eliminating that fear. And that’s good enough.

I heard a quote once, written by one of my favorite people. I keep it at my desk to remind me to be brave. Today, it reminds me of Martin.

It reads:

"Security is mostly a superstition. It does not exist in nature, nor do the children of men as a whole experience it. Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure. Life is either a daring adventure, or nothing.” —Helen Keller, The Open Door.

There are so many factors involved at this portion of the climb in determining if he’ll make it, i.e., health, temperature, teamwork, weather, mental aptitude, etc. All of these can be a detriment or an asset, depending on the moment. I’m sure even a little fear is mixed into the equation. If Martin never steps foot on that Summit, he’ll know how far he has come. If Everest remains his nemesis or becomes his mentor, it really won’t matter in the grand scheme of it all. He has faced the mountain, has overcome physical setbacks and has had an adventure that he’ll always have with him for the rest of his life. BUT I know that there is nothing he wants more, right now, than to be able to summit. So I send prayers his way.

If I had that moment back. The one when our paths parted ways and pointed us in opposite directions in the heart of the Khumbu Valley. Martin toward Everest. Me, toward Kathmandu. Regardless if he ever intended to summit Everest, I still would have said these words to him about "climbing mountains":  “Offer your hand. Pace yourself. Don’t get tangled in the rope. Take long whiffs of oxygen. Don’t get lost, look to the Summit. And most of all, don’t lose heart.”   

Sage advice, from such small children.

Updates are coming. Be rest assured I am scouring the web.


—Kym

Safe Arrival to Camp 3—Everyone is Strong!

Quickly.  The team arrived at Camp 3 (26,246 ft) this morning.  The climb was apparently windy and far from straightforward, however the team dealt with the conditions and moved up the mountain. According to their lead western guide, Adrian Ballinger, the climbers are all moving well, in good form and were able to make it to Camp 3 in less than 5 hours.  The team is now resting and getting ready for their four to six hour trip to the South Col (Camp 4 is located there) where their bid for the Summit is still slated for the 20th.

Below is the famous "5 ladders bound together" that Martin had to cross for the 5th time. I believe it started out as just 4 ladders lashed together in Martin's earlier posts. I pilfered this photo off the teams site-as they just posted it of the team crossing it this morning. Charlotte, you may want to close your eyes.

Himex team crossing the 5 ladders bound together
in the Western Cwn. Between Camps 1 and 2.

I'll continue to write updates as soon as I hear news.

–Kym