No one ever calls for an Arsenic and Old Lace—at least no one ever has on Brandyn Shank’s watch. The 1940s Martini variation doesn’t have the name recognition enjoyed by, say, the Tuxedo No. 2. or the Turf Cocktail. But according to Shank, whose menu at Nocturne in Denver takes inspiration from jazz history, the cocktail is the perfect representative for the swing and big band era.

Part of a long line of drinks named after iconic plays and movies, the Arsenic and Old Lace gets its title from Joseph Kesselring’s 1939 play and Frank Capra’s subsequent 1944 film starring Cary Grant. The theater connection makes perfect sense given that it was first published in Broadway producer Crosby Gaige’s 1944 book, Cocktail Guide and Ladies’ Companion.

The plot of the black comedy centers a couple of murderous old ladies (the old lace) who believe they’re doing a service to the aging bachelors to whom they serve poisonous elderberry wine (the arsenic). Somehow, the purple-tinted, gin-based drink with crème de violette, vermouth and absinthe (which conjures poison-adjacent imagery) seems to embody the unseen evil in the play’s seemingly innocuous characters. “When people see the purple, they think, Oh no, this is gonna be too sweet,” says Shank. But he values the Arsenic and Old Lace for its complexity, describing it as “floral, bright, elegant, decadent and very, very drinkable.”

Shank first encountered the Arsenic and Old Lace through a former Nocturne bartender named James Sporer who was a connoisseur of old-school Martini riffs. Collaboratively, the bar team at Nocturne pored over lots of different specs, trying them all, settling on one and tweaking it.

The original 1944 recipe calls for three parts dry gin to one part absinthe, with three dashes each of dry vermouth and crème de violette. For their modern rendition, the Nocturne team went for a more traditional Martini build with two ounces gin, three-quarters of an ounce of vermouth, a quarter-ounce of violet liqueur, and just a rinse of absinthe in the glass. They also added orange bitters—an accent many older Martinis feature.

For the gin, Shank prefers the French product Citadelle Gin Original 88. “It’s got such a floral nose to it,” he says, making it an obvious partner for the crème de violette. In addition to a traditional juniper profile and good backbone, there are green herbs on the palate that converse quietly with the absinthe, and a subtle cardamom note. Though the team tried out a few vermouths, they ultimately settled on their house favorite, Dolin Dry. Shank credits it for versatility, remarking that the mix of botanicals aren’t overwhelming. “It creates such good structure,” he says, and “it makes for such a lovely, velvety cocktail.

When it came to choosing a crème de violette, Shank wanted to ensure the liqueur wasn’t overly sweet and that it lacked any kind of artificial flavor. Their choice is also the cocktail revival favorite: Rothman & Winter, which he appreciates for being floral while avoiding being  cloying or syrupy. For the rinse, Absinthe Verte from local producer Leopold Brothers was a natural choice for a Denver bar like Nocturne. Though it employs a base of Chilean pisco, the traditional botanicals of wormwood, fennel and anise, among others, give it a classic flavor. 

Finally, a lemon twist (common with violette-laced drinks like the Aviation and the Attention) gives the Arsenic and Old Lace a bright lift to a cocktail with a strong nose. “It has an aroma that wafts as you’re carrying it around,” he says. “It makes people wonder, What are they drinking?”

The Arsenic and Old Lace is part of a “Jazz History Flight” at Nocturne, where it’s served alongside the Sazerac, Between the Sheets and Cosmopolitan, each of which represent an iconic period in the genre’s past. It’s also frequently used as a bartender’s choice recipe, though the cocktail can cause some trepidation when guests learn what’s in it—particularly the absinthe. But it’s been well received, and Martini drinkers are pleasantly surprised that it delivers the spirit-forward character they’re looking for. Shank loves the way the Arsenic and Old Lace fits the vibe at Nocturne, where there’s live jazz every night and the goal is to transport guests back in time. “You know, you’re in a club, it’s Prohibition,” he says. “Wouldn’t you want one of these in your hand?”